The ‘Hair as a Medium: Its Evolution in Beauty and Fashion’ editorial is one of our online ISSUE segments, head to THE ETERNAL ISSUE for the complete editorial
Editorial lensed by Costas Simos
Hair contrives a large part of our identity. As a reflection of our inner psyche, it plays a pivotal role in both beauty and fashion. No matter what the contemporary trends are, certain hairstyles have the ability to transcend generations due to their timeless nature. Simple styles seem to thrive decades on end, making them effortlessly chic and easily adaptable.
Hair renaissance: which of these looks are back in the limelight?
Pixie cut hairstyles are back in the scene. Also known as the ‘Twiggy cut’, after its heavy association with the 1960s iconic model, its low-maintenance is what attracts people to it. Short cuts allow for facial features to shine, adding playfulness to one’s look and appearance. Soft waves are another low-maintenance look; their deliberately messy appearance adds a charming element that eternalises it as a favourite. Chic up-dos are making a comeback with fashion houses and stylists playing around with the up-do, adding their own signature flair. The 60s beehive look is making a comeback in stylist Patrick Wilson’s list of favourites, the slicked-back bun is a staple at Emilia Wickstead’s new collection, while Philip Lim favours low-braided knots.
A tribute to Hollywood
Many hairstyles owe their iconic status to Hollywood. Certain ones became staples in movies or through their repetitive favouritism by certain celebrities, and so, people have begun to create direct associations between the two. Marilyn Monroe was a prime example of this. She managed to adopt the emblematic glamour curls as her own; a hairstyle so vividly associated with her until today. Audrey Hepburn’s classic beehive hairstyle with baby bangs in Breakfast at Tiffany’s is one of the most memorable looks to date. Universally recognised, the look has been imprinted on our minds as one solely characteristic of her. Jennifer Aniston’s layered locks in the 90s tv series Friends, had women running to the salon to replicate the look.
About the Editorial
Adding a twist to classic hairstyles and fusing avant-garde makeup into one, this editorial encapsulates the evolution of hairstyles by outlining iconic looks from different eras. The 90s were infamous for the space bun, worn by countless celebrities including Britney Spears and Jennifer Lopez. Inspired by the era, this editorial illustrates the evolution of the messy bun into a deconstructed, futuristic look comprised of abstract twisted spikes. This creative evolution of the hair is complemented by bright green shadow under the eyes and on the temples, adding a conceptual and avant-garde element.
The 80s are celebrated in this spread, by pairing a voluminous ponytail with purple hues over the eyes, texture was everything in the 80s. Hair was teased and maximum volume was the ultimate goal – the more the mousse, the better. This hairstyle adds playfulness, mirroring the 80s vibe all in all. Accompanied by technicolour eyeshadow, the vibrancy and groovy feel of the time is perfectly compacted here. Adding to this, big hair is making a comeback this year. A glimpse of the 80s was spotted in Paris Fashion Week 2022, as untamed, voluminous hair was thrust into the limelight by Hermès.
The editorial pays homage to the 70s by exploring the evolution of masculine hairstyles during the era. The 70s gave rise to more playfulness in hair and fashion. Curls were embraced and styling products were championed to achieve the refined, wet-curl look. This freedom allowed men to experiment with the defined curl while simultaneously opting for a tousled, laid-back feel. Coupled with swatches of blue, this editorial’s look is giving ultimate 70s nostalgia. A modern touch is added by transforming the hair into a sleeker, looser curl, adding shine and highlighting the laidback layers of the cut. This contemporary rendition of 70s hair is one largely adopted by Gucci, specifically in the ‘Love Parade’ and ‘Aria’ campaigns. Makeup is also given a contemporary touch, tinting the moustache to match the blue shadow on the model.
The makeup palette chosen for this editorial adds a futuristic twist; its striking colours and bold brush strokes are a reminder that makeup fuels creativity as a mode of expression. The spread illustrates that hair and makeup are boundless in contemporary times. As hairstyles evolve physically, progress is also notable in the inclusivity this entails. Hair knows no gender but rather acts as an artistic medium for both men and women who choose to explore their identity and their personality in this manner.
What sparked this hair evolution?
The 60s’ sexual revolution was a contributing factor behind this and a redefining era for beauty and fashion. Hair was a depiction of social change, translated in individuals’ appearances. Men and women began blurring the lines between gender stereotypes, making taboo stylistic choices. Women favoured shorter cuts, adding androgynous touches to their style while men let their hair grow long. Hair was suddenly a form of freedom and expression. A variety of choices were readily available to everyone, encouraging the definitions of masculinity and femininity to coalesce.
From beauty and fashion to celebrating heritage
As time progresses, hair plays a different role in an individual’s life and people are encouraged to embrace their natural hair more than ever. From celebrating heritage to feeling confident in their own skin, natural hair allows us to accept ourselves for who we are and experience a sense of freedom. It is a powerful symbol of identity because it is both physical and very personal. The way someone chooses to style their hair is a symbolisation of their identity, raising the question of whether society promotes this externalisation of our identity in a superficial manner.
What remains eternal, is the power of freedom and artistic expression through hair and makeup.
Written by Stella Georghiou
Visit the ISSUE for the complete editorial and images
Photographer Costas Simos @itsjustsimos
Hair Styling Bratis @bratis.k
Makeup Eva Tsoka @evatsoka
Art Direction Konstantinos Tsagkaris @konstantinos.tsagkaris
Assistant Art Director Philip Vogdanis @philip.vogdanis
Models Lizzie Hapchenko @naranjas.vendedor, Markos Mouzakis @denim_egw, Katerina Kalogirou @_aintcare
Studio Lunar @lunar.ath