Simone Rocha has always woven nostalgia into her designs, but for her Autumn/Winter 2025 show at London Fashion Week, she took it one step further, inviting us into a world shaped by childhood memories, teenage rebellion, and the echoes of school days.
The collection unfolded in Goldsmiths’ Hall in New Cross, set against a backdrop of mirrors, chandeliers, and ornate gold frames. The South East London university, renowned for its art and design curriculum, was a fitting setting for a collection that explored education in all its forms.
Daughter of legendary designer John Rocha, Simone grew up in Dublin and has frequently spoken about her school days and teenage defiance. That theme of adolescent freedom was a distinct undercurrent throughout the collection.
That push and pull between innocence and defiance defined the clothing. Rocha’s signature mix of Elizabethan and Victorian references was ever present, but this time, they were fused with the aesthetic codes of a schoolgirl’s wardrobe – tweed twin sets, crisp collars, and ballet flats were reimagined with oversized proportions, deconstructed details, and unexpected fabrics, making them feel less like uniforms and more like the wardrobe of a teenager rewriting the rules.
The brand, known for its softer, more ethereal designs, uses pastels and ribbon as a foundation with this collection no different. Silk dresses laced with ribbon formed a common thread throughout and perhaps signalled that the ribbon trend isn’t quite over yet.
While nostalgia was deeply embedded throughout, there was no over sentimentality; the collection carried an undeniable toughness. Rocha’s brand identity has always been rooted in contrasts: sheer fabrics layered over structured silhouettes, feminine materials hardened with masculine details, and traditional garments subverted with unexpected textures. That vision was sharper than ever, with a constant sense of strength beneath the dark romanticism. Chain belts with lockets, frayed ribbons, rugby jackets, and structured corsets brought a rebellious and masculine edge, toughening the collection’s delicate elements.
Having attended The High School in Rathgar, one wonders if Rocha’s preppy rugby jerseys were inspired by any real-life schoolmates from the strong rugby school. Beyond the schoolyard influences, Rocha’s connection to Ireland is always unmistakable. The Ranelagh native frequently evokes Irish mythology and folklore, with past references to The Children of Lir and Lughnasa, blending heritage and storytelling into fabric.
The storytelling really shone through in the accessories. Shoes were playful yet rebellious, featuring furry ballet flats, embellished socks with brooches, and a ballet-meets-sportswear hybrid, mirroring the collection’s balance of softness and toughness. Models clutched their accessories close, as though holding onto pieces of armour. Some carried fur accessories in a way that evoked a young girl holding a teddy bear, instantly recalling the invitation to Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2013 show, which featured an image of a child in the laneway behind her childhood home, with Rocha later recreating the image holding a bear for Vogue. The connection between past and present was unmistakable.
The runway was the deep red carpet covering the university’s hall, where Alexa Chung and Bel Powley walked among the models. Chung, the perfect embodiment of Rocha’s offbeat femininity, wore a furry crop top, a belted leather jacket, and a bag adorned with buckles, encapsulating the collection’s juxtaposition of softness and strength. Irish actors Fiona Shaw and Fionn O’Shea also took to the runway, walking against a black curtain backdrop.
As the final walkout took place to the sound of The Shangri-Las’ Past, Present and Future, the song choice summarised the collection’s essence. Rocha frequently draws from her past, personal life, heritage, and memories, but she reshapes them into something entirely new. The show notes reinforced this sentiment: “Distilling the past for the present.”
As the show concluded, Rocha emerged, blowing a kiss to the audience, once again proving that everyone can take something from her collections and feel part of her vision. The designer has always believed that fashion should be interesting but never alienating.
The underlying theme of Aesop’s fable The Tortoise and the Hare was a fitting metaphor for a collection that reflected on how far the brand has come. Fifteen years after launching her brand, Rocha’s slow and steady evolution has cemented her as one of the most pivotal names in fashion today.
With this collection, steeped in history, narrative, and identity; Simone Rocha reaffirmed that the past is always something to be re-explored, deconstructed, and reimagined. And in her hands, it becomes something entirely new.
Written by Cristin Proctor Rooney